Ankur

Between Fountain and the stock exchange. Beer 90/-, fish 175/-, squid 150/-, prawns 150/- [7/01].

Ankur in its new avatar as a sea food restaurant is outstanding even in a town full of rivals. This may come as a bit of a suprise to those of you who knew this place as one of the most innovative vegetarian restaurants of the early '80s, or in its most unremarkable days during the '90s. The interior has changed to a well lit, wood and greenery look in the seating area on the ground floor. The mezzanine has a few tables forming a cosy area for long coversation-rich dinners.

The beer is served cold. Really. The kitchen understands when you want some thing like the crisp sesame covered prawns as starters; and makes sure it reaches your table before the beer has warmed. There are a couple of remarkable fish preparations, beautifully spiced. I remember them for a couple of days afterwards. Like many of the more recent sea food restaurants, Ankur has made a conscious decision to add variety beyond the Mangalore cuisine that first made a hit in Mumbai. That is not to say that you can't get a good Gassi here if you want. The desserts are not innovative, but good enough that you don't have to go elsewhere for one.

I have liked the service on both my recent visits, it is good without being obtrusive. Both times we had good company at the table, and the conversation continued well after the meal was over. The waiters left us alone. That is something that cannot happen too often in Mumbai.