Apoorva

Bombay Samachar Marg, near Fountain. Beer 35/-, fish 35/-, squid 70/-, crab 40/- [9/95].

Downstairs

Apoorva is one of South Bombay's newly famous sea food restaurants. The downstairs section is substantially cheaper than the upstairs (more about which later). Before 8 pm on a working day it is full of stock brokers and their clients dropping in for a quick bite before taking the train home. After the crowd dissipates one can have quite a pleasant dinner.

There are many things on the menu, but the fish is the main attraction. The pomfret and bangra were absolutely fresh and steaming hot. The prawns were excellent. We had it Koliwada style, batter fried, with lemon on top, as well as the masala. The prawn Koliwada wins. The squid was also very fresh. Their preparation with garlic is one of the better squid dishes I've had in recent times.

For a change of taste, we asked for a plate of alu chaat with the beer. It was simple, but quite tasty. Clearly the stock brokers know a good thing when they see it.

The service was excellent. We reached the restaurant at about half past seven, when the only table free was a cramped one in a corner. We told the waiter to get us a better table, and he found one for us in a few minutes. A small service, but done with a smile, and one that many other restaurants in the area do not see fit to provide.