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Kala Ghoda. Pomfret 400-250/-, tandoori shark 80/-, tandoori Bangra 50/-, beer 60/- [3/96].

Trishna, definitely the best sea-food restaurant in Bombay now, is always full. Be prepared for a half-hour wait any evening of the week. In a restaurant that attracts every celebrity in Bombay and figures prominently in the gossip columns, it is a pleasure to find that a dinner for two at the price of 250/- is not out of the question. And the most serendipitous discovery can be the service-- impeccable, whether you are a big spender or a budget eater.

Over the last two years the three chefs have extended the menu considerably. Apart from the mainstay of Konkani and tandoori fish, there is Chinese and, now, a small section of "continental" cuisine on the card. The pomfret, crabs and lobsters are definitely recommended if you don't mind the price. But if you are a frequent visitor you cannot go wrong looking for the less pricey items on the menu.

The appetisers are fun-- everything from mushroom chili to Kolhapuri prawns are just right for beer. The fish is certainly the thing to concentrate on, but don't forget to keep an eye on the other stuff. My favourite "other" is the Hyderabadi dal. When you are looking for dessert, don't sneer at even the humble caramel custard, because it really is different in Trishna.

Sea food: Ankur Apoorva Excellensea Fountain Inn Gokul Mahesh Trishna (current) Wall Street

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